Lapsang Souchong: the Chinese Smoked Black Tea Worth Discovering

Lapsang Souchong is arguably the most instantly recognisable tea in the world, identified by scent alone. This Chinese speciality from Fujian province, dried over pine wood fires, releases an intense smokiness that divides opinion as readily as it captivates. Origins, craftsmanship, tasting notes: discover this emblematic smoked black tea, beloved in both Chinese and Russian tradition.

What is Lapsang Souchong?

Lapsang Souchong (正山小种, meaning "small leaves from the true mountain") is a black tea originating in the Wuyi Mountains of Fujian province, China. It is considered the very first black tea in history, born in the seventeenth century almost by accident, and remains one of the most cherished teas among serious enthusiasts today.

Its defining characteristic is a drying process over pine wood fires, which gives it an unmistakable smoky fragrance. The flavour is deep and intense, evoking a crackling fireplace, peaty whisky or crispy bacon. No other tea in the world carries quite this aromatic signature.

Origins and history of Lapsang Souchong

According to tradition, Lapsang Souchong came into being in the seventeenth century during a period of political unrest. Soldiers passing through a tea-growing village are said to have disrupted the usual drying process. Unwilling to lose their harvest, local farmers improvised by drying the leaves quickly over the pine wood that was readily available nearby.

The resulting smoky flavour won over Dutch merchants, then Russian ones. Tsar Nicholas II reportedly counted it among his favourite teas. Lapsang Souchong went on to become the defining tea of the historic Russian Caravan trade route.

How Lapsang Souchong is made

The traditional process unfolds in five stages:

1. Harvesting the mature leaves ("souchong" refers to smaller leaves, though in practice these are larger than the buds).
2. Withering over a pine fire, which provides the first aromatic infusion of the leaf.
3. Rolling the leaves to break down the cell walls and release their natural juices.
4. Fermentation (oxidation), following the standard process for black tea.
5. Final drying in baskets suspended above the embers of local Masson pine.

The pine used is specific to the Wuyi region: Masson pine, which releases aromas quite distinct from the Scots pine common in Europe. This is what gives an authentic Lapsang Souchong its one-of-a-kind profile.

The aromatic profile of Lapsang Souchong

The principal tasting notes:

• Pine smoke: the dominant note, powerful both on the nose and on the palate.
• Resinous wood: a deep, almost oily woody quality.
• Leather and tobacco: complex secondary notes that add richness.
• A gentle sweetness: which tempers the smokiness and brings balance.
• A long finish: the smoke lingers pleasantly long after each sip.

On the nose, Lapsang Souchong immediately evokes a winter fireplace, a peaty Scotch whisky (think Laphroaig or Lagavulin), or crispy smoked bacon. It is, in every sense, a radical sensory experience.

How to brew Lapsang Souchong

Standard method

• 2.5 g of tea per 200 ml of water (one heaped teaspoon)
• Water at 95°C (just off the boil)
• Steeping time: 3 to 4 minutes
• No milk or sugar (both would mask the smoky aromas)

Gong fu cha method (Chinese style)

For the more adventurous: use a gaiwan or yixing teapot, with a ratio of 1 g per 30 ml of water. Perform successive short infusions starting at 20 seconds, gradually increasing the steeping time with each round. This approach allows you to appreciate the full aromatic evolution of the leaf.

Food pairings with Lapsang Souchong

Lapsang Souchong is one of the most versatile teas when it comes to food pairing:

• Smoked dishes: smoked salmon, smoked duck breast, bacon, barbecued meats.
• Cheeses: Roquefort, Fourme d'Ambert and other blue cheeses.
• Rich dishes: foie gras, terrines, slow-cooked sauces.
• Asian cuisine: Peking duck, caramelised pork, Sichuan dishes.
• Dark chocolate: 70% cacao and above, especially smoked or peaty varieties.

Best avoided alongside: delicate pastries, subtle fish dishes and lightly flavoured vegetarian plates, all of which would be overwhelmed by the smokiness.

Lapsang Souchong in the kitchen

Beyond the teacup, Lapsang Souchong can be used in cooking to lend a smoky depth to a variety of dishes:

• Marinade for white meats or fish.
• Broth for ramen or pho, to add an extra layer of complexity.
• Infused salt: 1 g of Lapsang steeped in 100 g of salt creates a wonderful homemade smoked salt.
• Chocolate ganache for adventurous baking and patisserie.
• Chinese marbled eggs, cooked in the brewed tea.

The benefits of Lapsang Souchong

As a black tea, Lapsang Souchong offers the classic benefits associated with the category:

• Antioxidant polyphenols (theaflavins and thearubigins).
• Moderate caffeine content (30 to 50 mg per cup) for mental alertness.
• Cardiovascular support, as suggested by several studies on black tea.
• Digestive comfort, particularly welcome after a rich meal.

There are no specific benefits attributable to the smoking process itself, but no documented negative effects have been observed at normal consumption levels of 2 to 4 cups per day.

Our Lapsang Souchong at Thés & Traditions

Explore our Lapsang Souchong, smoked over Masson pine in the true tradition of Fujian. A superior quality for the discerning tea lover. You are also warmly invited to browse our full range of organic black teas, from the most delicate (Darjeeling) to the most full-bodied (Lapsang Souchong).

Frequently asked questions

Is the smoky flavour of Lapsang Souchong artificial?

Not at all. It is entirely natural, created solely by drying the leaves over pine wood fires. A genuine, traditionally made Lapsang Souchong contains no added artificial flavourings whatsoever.

Is Lapsang Souchong safe to drink?

Yes, when consumed in reasonable quantities. Concerns around compounds produced by the smoking process (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons) have been studied: the levels found in a cup of Lapsang Souchong are well below any recognised risk threshold, and considerably lower than those found in smoked meats or sausages.

How long does Lapsang Souchong keep?

Stored in an airtight container away from light, it keeps for 18 to 24 months without any significant loss of quality. Its full oxidation gives it a longer shelf life than green teas.

Can Lapsang Souchong be steeped more than once?

Yes, two to three times, particularly using the gong fu method. Each infusion reveals a different facet: the first is intensely smoky, the second more woody, and the third noticeably softer.

What is the difference between Lapsang Souchong and Tarry Souchong?

Tarry Souchong is even smokier, having been dried more intensively, and was traditionally developed for Western export markets. Classic Chinese Lapsang Souchong is more nuanced. Both have their own appeal.

Is Lapsang Souchong suitable for tea beginners?

It can be a challenge: its bold character tends to provoke strong reactions one way or the other. Try a small amount first. Those who enjoy peaty Scotch whiskies tend to fall for it immediately. For beginners with a preference for gentler flavours, an Earl Grey or a Darjeeling makes a more welcoming starting point.