The world of tea offers an extraordinary range of varieties. Even though all leaves come from the same plant, the Camellia sinensis, not all black teas are alike. Flavour profiles, levels of bitterness, production methods, harvests, countries of origin... here is a guide to help you find the black tea that suits you.
- Black tea-producing countries
- How black tea is made
- Harvesting tea leaves
- The different varieties of black tea
Black tea-producing countries
China is the country that most often comes to mind when we think of tea. Yet when it comes to black tea specifically, other regions of the world are well worth exploring.
Chinese black teas
China is the world's leading producer of green, white and black tea.
Black tea, which the Chinese call red tea because of the colour the leaves give to the water, is primarily produced for export.
China's many provinces yield a wide range of black teas. Among the most celebrated: Keemun, Lapsang Souchong, and Yunnan.
Oolong is also well known, though it is not strictly a black tea. Because its leaves are only partially oxidised, Oolong sits between green and black tea.
Japan, another land of tea
Tea production is also significant in Japan, though it focuses primarily on green teas, including the celebrated matcha and Sencha, both prized for their health-giving properties.
Black tea production in Japan is a relatively recent development.
As in China, the Japanese call it red tea, after the colour it gives to the water (not to be confused with rooibos).
The most appreciated Japanese black teas tend to be smoked varieties, such as Japan Lapsang.
Indian black tea
India is the world's second-largest tea producer after China, and its black tea enjoys an outstanding reputation.
It is grown in gardens, most often at altitude. The cooler temperatures slow the growth of the tea plant's leaves, giving the same variety a distinctly different character.
The most celebrated Indian black teas are Assam and Darjeeling.
How black tea is made
The production process plays a central role in the quality of black tea.
The traditional method of oxidation (often loosely called fermentation, though that term is not quite accurate for black tea) is what gives the finest infusions their depth and complexity.
Other methods exist that are faster and less costly, collectively known as CTC. Black teas produced this way are generally more affordable, but can disappoint on the palate.
Traditional oxidation of black tea
When Chinese producers speak of fermenting black tea, they are referring to something quite different from Western usage.
The black tea we drink in the West is green tea whose leaves have undergone oxidation. True fermentation applies only to very specific teas: Pu-erh, for instance, is a fermented tea.
Tea leaves begin to oxidise from the moment they are picked, but several distinct steps are needed to reach the desired level of oxidation:
- withering;
- rolling;
- fixing or firing.
The CTC method: faster oxidation for black tea
Short for Crushing-Tearing-Curling, this process automates black tea production. Less gentle than the orthodox method, the resulting tea is intended mainly for tea bags.
While quality can occasionally be decent, the flavour is generally less refined. These teas are, however, often more affordable to buy, as they are cheaper to produce.
Harvesting tea leaves
The harvest is one of the key factors in tea quality. Hand-picking is naturally preferable to mechanical harvesting, but it is not the only variable that matters.
The right season for harvesting tea leaves
The tea harvest does not take place at the same time everywhere.
Some regions can pick leaves year-round, while others, due to their latitude, must wait for spring.
During the winter months, reduced sunlight causes tea plants to enter dormancy. The harvest therefore begins in spring, as is the case in Darjeeling, India, and in Japan.
Why is spring tea considered superior?
The answer is straightforward: the rising sap brings fresh, intensely vegetal notes and a flavour that is truly unique. These early harvests are eagerly awaited by enthusiasts.
Types of tea leaf picking
Spring tea is also sought after for the precision of its picking. Two methods in particular are highly prized:
- imperial picking;
- fine picking.
Imperial picking involves harvesting only the bud and the first young shoot beneath it. Fine picking includes the bud along with the two leaves that follow.
Beyond the flavour they impart, both methods allow the tea to retain the full benefit of its health properties.
Young shoots produce antioxidants to protect themselves from the sun; on their own, they concentrate up to 80% of all the antioxidants generated by the tea plant.
Coarse picking gathers the first three to four leaves and is used to produce more affordable teas.
Black tea grades
Black tea has its own classification system. Knowing the garden a tea comes from is not always enough to determine its quality, since black tea is frequently sold as a blend. A blend combines several tea varieties to balance the flavour and achieve a specific aroma profile. To help navigate quality, black teas are classified by grade:
- Souchong comprises the larger, lower leaves.
- In the Pekoe grade, the leaves are finer and more delicate.
- Flowery Pekoe (FP) refers to leaves rolled into small balls.
- Orange Pekoe (OP) designates young leaves from a late fine picking.
- Flowery Orange Pekoe (FOP) is the highest grade (further refined in certain regions): it covers the harvest of buds and the first two leaves.
The different varieties of black tea
Black tea comes in a remarkable diversity of varieties. In principle, black tea can be made from any plantation, in any region. But some stand out above the rest, celebrated for their excellence. Whether you prefer a pure tea, a blend, or a flavoured variety, there is a black tea for every taste.
Smoked black teas
Smoked black tea is made from oxidised leaves that are rolled and then smoked, most often over spruce wood. These teas are widely appreciated and work beautifully in cooking as well as in the cup. The most famous are Lapsang Souchong from China and Japan Lapsang. That said, virtually any black tea can be smoked, and smoked varieties can be found from all corners of the world.
Assam black tea
Grown in India, Assam black tea is a perfect breakfast tea. The British have long known this, often enjoying it in the morning with a splash of milk. Its flavour is full-bodied and slightly brisk. Produced in the low-altitude Assam region, the warm climate allows the tea plants to be highly productive.
Assam leaves are often harvested in two flushes. The second harvest is generally considered superior and is known as Tippy Tea, named after the golden tips that appear on the leaves.
Darjeeling black tea
Arguably the most celebrated black tea from India. The cultivars grow in the gardens of Darjeeling, high on the slopes of the Himalayas. Often called the "champagne of teas", it is considered by many to be the finest of all black teas, offering delicate notes of muscat grape and almond.
Earl Grey black tea
The famous Earl Grey is, in essence, a blend of different black teas. It may include smoked teas such as Lapsang Souchong, Darjeeling, Ceylon, and sometimes even Oolong. The exact blend varies, but bergamot is always present, making it a flavoured tea. Earl Grey is hugely popular in England, and several legends surround its origins and the story of its name.
Ceylon tea
Another tea known the world over, Ceylon tea is grown in Sri Lanka (Ceylon being the island's former name), once a British colony. It has a particular history: originally, Ceylon tea was almost exclusively black, though today green and white versions are also produced. It is, however, the black variety for which it remains best known. Sri Lanka classifies its teas by grade according to the altitude of the cultivars: low, mid and high grown.
These differences give Ceylon tea a character that varies distinctly from one garden to the next.